Day 5 - Las Malvinas/Falkland Islands - Day 1 Saunders Island (A 5-Penguin Day!)
The plan for the afternoon of the 20th November was to land on Saunders Island. This is the fourth largest of the Las Malvinas/Falkland Islands and is run as a sheep farm. The island consists of three peninsulas connected by narrow necks, which are prone to erosion due to storms. So, after stuffing my face with burgers, salad and a hot dog on Deck 5 of the Sea Spirit during lunch, and recovering from the morning's landing on Carcass Island, we boarded the Zodiacs once again and the landing to Saunders was to begin. As with all landings, the team head across first to secure a safe landing site, map out a route to ensure nobody goes where they shouldn't go, and help all passengers out from and into the Zodiacs.
Saunders Island. The beach is dotted with Gentoo Penguins in this image, with a handful of King, Rockhopper and Magellanic Penguins also.
The first sight to greet one are the Striated Caracara that come in looking for food scraps. Then, being downwind of the upland region of this part of the island, the strong scent of penguin poo is apparent. A little trek up the small sandy dune connecting two peninsulas and the penguins became very apparent. Gentoos! And lots of them. The Gentoos are a big penguin, with only the King and Emperor Penguins being bigger. They are also very elegant and have lots of personality. There were a number of colonies scattered across the top of the sand-spit linking the peninsulas. The majority of the birds were simply lying down with their heads into the wind, marking out their nest site, and sitting on eggs. There was a lot of activity in the colonies, with lots of birds coming back and forth from the sea. I spent some time with these birds before heading onwards along the beach.
Gentoo Penguins
The next port of call was to head over to the edge of the beach and watch the Rockhopper Penguins come out of the water and climb up the steep cliffs to one of their colonies. However, as I slowly made my way along the beach, I came across a small colony of King Penguins!! This was unexpected. Due to the small number here, the expedition team would have rather us see King Penguins for the first time in the massive colonies on South Georgia, rather than the small colony that has established itself on Las Malvinas/Falkland Islands. Needless to say, it was absolutely breathtaking to see these enormous birds (1 metre tall!!) waddle up the beach, stand around in groups, or in pairs, just being themselves. There were last year's juveniles also present, with their downy brown feathers. The first explorers that came across the King Penguin colonies thought the juveniles were a different species and called them Wooly Penguins. It was a real treat to see these magnificent birds. Groups huddled together, just staring into space or at each other; pairs facing into the wind trying to cool down by leaning back on their heels and tails; and adults ignoring their youngsters! As we were going to be seeing hundreds of thousands of King Penguins on South Georgia, I moved on.
King Penguin
On the way across to the Rockhopper Penguin route on the cliffs, I stumbled across penguin species number 3 of the day - Magellanic Penguin. This would be the last opportunity to see this species, but I was unfortunate in only seeing a handful of these different-looking penguins with their chunky bill and rounder and narrower heads than the other penguin species we had just seen. The Magellanic Penguin nests in burrows amongst the tussac grass on Carcass Island, but on Saunders Island, the grass is heavily grazed by sheep and so is kept quite low. Because of that, the land is prone to erosion and sheep can (and do) put their legs through the soil and collapse Magellanic Penguin burrows. I was mindful not to poke my head into the nesting burrows and to ensure that I didn't collapse the soil into the burrows themselves. So, with that, I moved quickly on.
Magellanic Penguin
Wondering where the Rockhopper route was? All I had to do was look up and see the "Yellow Penguin" brigade, the Sea Spirit passengers, in the distance! We were all given bright yellow parka jackets at the start of the trip for use on the landings. The parkas are warm and waterproof. However, I found the jacket too bulky for photography and so kept to my own waterproof jacket and lots of layers! As it was easy to spot the Yellow Penguins, I headed over to watch the Rockhoppers go up and also to watch the come back down the cliffs and into the sea. It was generally easy to determine which direction birds were going as they took breaks on the cliffs, meeting halfway and having a chat (squabble!); the generally dirty and stained birds were heading down to the sea having spent time incubating one or two eggs, while the clean birds were heading up and to relieve their mate from incubation duties. Watching the Rockhoppers come in and out of the water were a pair of Snowy Sheathbills who were eating anything that looked edible, including penguin poo. Sheathbills are the only wader found on the Antarctic continent and the only species there without webbed feet! They are quirky looking birds but great fun to watch. I never tired of seeing these enigmatic birds. Dotted along the coastline were a few Kelp Goose as well, feeding and resting on the rocks.
The Yellow Penguin brigade with the Rockhopper Penguin colony visible up the slope on the right hand side.
Rockhopper Penguins emerging from the water and on their way up to their colony
Rockhopper Penguins coming down from the nesting colony and heading to the sea.
Snowy Sheathbill
Next part of the island which we were to trek to was upwards to the Rockhopper Penguin nesting colony and onwards again towards an accessible Black-browed Albatross breeding colony. We passed some Upland Goose family groups and Turkey Vultures soaring over the colonies looking for sick, injured or dead penguins to eat. The nesting Rockhopper Penguins held an unexpected surprise: MACARONI PENGUIN! This poor individual was certainly lost looking as it took up a nesting site at the edge of the colony, so we were easily able to pick it out. That made it 5 penguin species in one afternoon! Incredible experience. We spent a bit of time with these Rockhoppers. In amongst the penguins were breeding Falkland Island/King (Imperial) Shags. This was a great opportunity to see this race of Imperial Shag up close. One of the differences to separate the Falkland Island Shag race in the field from the main species is that it has a black cheek rather than a white cheek, such as those found on the South American mainland and seen in the Beagle Channel/Tierra del Fuego.
Rockhopper Penguins at their nesting colony
The larger, paler Macaroni Penguin sits in the foreground and surrounded by Rockhopper Penguins. The longer, brighter and richer-toned eyebrows are easily noticeable.
Falkland Island/King/Black-cheeked Shag (a race of Imperial Shag)
The walk along towards the Black-browed Albatross (BBA) colony was quite steep and a bit slippy on the over-grazed grass, so care was required. However, the sight that was set out in front of us was mind-blowing. There, no more than 20 metres in front us, was a colony of BBAs sitting on their raised mud nests. It was jaw-dropping. Having spent the previous two days watching them at sea, it was phenomenal seeing one so close and on land. As we arrived at the site, Jim had established an imaginary line along which we were asked to stay behind, ensuring we were the required minimum distance from the breeding birds. Anyone who strayed over the line was quickly asked to move back. This is important for not just the birds, but also to ensure that the company are allowed to visit again, and that all other companies also toe the line and obey the rules for observing wildlife in these incredible places. I wish the same could be said for seabird colonies on certain islands around Ireland that get invaded during the breeding season by photographers who do not give the birds the space they deserve.
Black-browed Albatrosses on their nests of raised mud; wing stretching on the colony; coming into land with the feet out to act as air brakes; looking out on its domain
While we sat there, a BBA landed in right in front of us and proceeded to walk right up to us. I couldn't believe it. I started shaking, the adrenaline flowing through my veins. I had to take a deep breath, compose myself and start shooting! At one point, the individual was too close to fit in the frame with the 400mm lens and ended up being too close to fit in the frame with the 70-200mm lens I had. Staggering. The size of the bird is difficult to convey in images without anything to compare it against. I think that Jim has photographs of the bird and my feet in the frame, as he was about 20 people up from me. Hopefully, if he did take those shots, they may illustrate the sheer size of these birds. The Albatross continued to look around at each and every person along that imaginary line we were to say behind. It was so special to witness that. Once the bird had had its fill of the yellow penguins, it took a couple of steps and took off with ease into the wind.
Black-browed Albatross coming up for a look; holding its ground; headshot of BBA; taking off (note a Striated Caracara in the background)
Sadly, it was time to head back to the Zodiacs, as our time was up. The various companies who provide these trips, book time slots in each area where landings are allowed or Zodiac cruises are allowed. No two boats are allowed to be in the same place at the same time. This prevents too much disturbance to the wildlife, but also gives the paying passengers the feeling that they are on their own in these wild and remote places. Giving the whole "expedition" feel. On the way back to the Zodiacs, we spotted some Long-tailed Meadowlarks but also a few Dark-faced Tyrants up the slopes! Nice. New species for me. I scrambled up the slope hoping to get a photograph and managed to get one or two I was happy with. Super little bird and one that could be best described as a cross between a Chat and a Wheatear. We also came across some Striated Caracara sheltering from the wind, which was very strong that day, behind some some sea cabbage.
Dark-faced Tyrant
Long-tailed Meadowlark
Striated Caracara sheltering behind some sea cabbage
One of the dangers of nesting on an island that is also run as a sheep farm is that there are sheep on the prowl, despite the best intentions of fencing off the nesting areas. Now and again, a sheep can get in and the Rockhoppers are not happy about it. There were also some Brown Skuas hanging around the colonies, waiting for a penguin to become inattentive so that the Skua can get in and steal an egg.
Rockhopper Penguin with an invasive species and some sheep-proof fencing.
Brown Skua surveying the Rockhopper Penguins. This sighting meant I had now seen all the species in the Skua/Jaeger family!
Once we were back at the meeting point to go back on the Zodiacs, more Striated Caracara were hanging around the area, looking for some food. Looking back across to the Rockhopper Penguin and Black-browed Albatross sites, one could see Striated Caracara and Turkey Vultures just cruising along the cliff faces and slopes, looking to pounce and find an easy meal. It was quite something seeing both flying together. The Striated Caracaras hanging around the Zodiac landing area were very tame, coming up and investigating shoe laces, bags, the lifejackets...anything that all!
Striated Caracara
Turkey Vulture and Striated Caracara
While waiting to get on the Zodiacs, and back to the Sea Spirit, I noticed some rusting metal pots. When I asked Jim what these were, he said that they were used by whalers/sealers to boil penguins in order to extract the fat from the birds. I can only imagine that it was very easy for the whalers/sealers to simply walk up to the birds, grab then and pop them into the pots. Even down here has not escaped our cruel ways.
Penguin boiler.
After a biological wash-down of the footwear, bags, jackets and waterproof pants, I headed for my room, took off the boots and waterproofs and headed to the bar to pick up a Beagle Red Ale and ponder on the day's sights, sounds and smells. Disbelief washed over me as I realised that this was really happening. I was on an adventure of a lifetime. Tomorrow would be a day in Port Stanley. I couldn't wait....
Day 5 - Las Malvinas/Falkland Islands - Day 1: Carcass Island
Dawn broke on the third day of being aboard the ship and I woke to what would become a familiar sight - a hint of blue followed by quickly covering cloud cover. However, that morning also brought my first sight of the West Las Malvinas/Falkland Islands. Our first port of call was to be Carcass Island, a small island of the West Point Island group. Even though the cloud came in, it quickly disappeared again when the sun managed to get up and burn off that cover.
Dawn over the Western Islands of East Falklands/Las Malvinas
The scenery at dawn was quite breathtaking. There were birds slowly beginning to emerge and I was one of a handful of people on the deck. Damian and some of his crew were up photographing the dawn. I generally set myself up on Deck 4-Aft as it was close to the bar where there was a coffee machine and biscuits made by the pastry chef on the ship. I could be found there every morning as dawn broke, coffee at the ready and evidence of biscuit consumption sprinkled down the front of my neck warmer, actively scanning the sea for signs of life. This would become my routine for the trip.
Western Islands of East Falklands/Las Malvinas
As I left Damian and his group to their sunrise images, I went in search of birds. The first few species I clocked were Southern Fulmar, Black-browed Albatross, Southern and Northern Royal Albatross, Northern and Southern Giant Petrel, Cape Petrel, Sooty Shearwater, White-chinned Petrel and Wilson's Storm-Petrel. Rock and Imperial Shags were also flying by in small numbers, gliding past the bow of the ship in squadron formation. The incredible thing, however, was the number of Common Diving Petrels zipping away from the bow of the boat as we steamed along the coastline of the archipelago. There were hundreds of these auk-like seabirds. In fact, there were probably the smallest seabird we saw on this trip, on par with the Storm-Petrels. However, given the poor light and the speed these birds fly off the water, it was quite a challenge to get any photograph at all. I only saw them if I was standing at the bow of the ship, facing into the teeth of the cold wind, as they took off away from or dove under water from the oncoming ship. It would be the only day of the trip where we would see such numbers.
Common Diving Petrel
When we crept around one particular headland, we were met with a noise and a sight that I will never forget. There were hundreds, if not a few thousand, Black-browed Albatross wheeling and soaring around the face of the cliffs. A wonderous sight. I could only imagine what it would be like seeing this off the cliffs of the Old Head of Kinsale in Cork, or the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry. Fantastic. Hopefully, this sight will never diminish.
Black-browed Albatross wheel around the cliffs
Southern Fulmar - one of the most beautiful seabirds on the trip, in my opinion. Just so elegant.
As we moved further along, I spotted a group of something porpoising out of the water at incredible speed, hovering over the surface for a split second. I first thought "fur seals" or maybe a small dolphin species. I raised my binoculars and couldn't believe what I was seeing - PENGUINS!! I was gobsmacked. I did not think they would appear out of the water like this, porpoising the way they did. I have seen a lot of footage from BBC's Attenborough programs where this behaviour was filmed. But it just does not prepare one for the spectacle in the flesh. It was mesmerising. The penguins were difficult to follow and judge where they would exit the water due to the speed they travelled at through the water. I was watching separate groups of Gentoo Penguin and Rockhopper Penguin. Two new species for me. They literally were flying out of the water. I just couldn't stop smiling. It was quite overwhelming. And we hadn't even landed anywhere yet!
Gentoo Penguins
Rockhopper Penguin
After the excitement of the penguins, I was torn between eating breakfast down in the dining room or staying out on deck for the journey through the islets of the West Point Island group towards Carcass Island. I was buzzing and didn't want to miss anything. Knowing that we had a long morning ahead, I legged it down for a quick omelette (freshly made by the chef...fantastic breakfast) and coffee, and pegged it back up on deck. As we sailed towards Carcass Island, I noted Kelp Geese along the shorelines, Black-crowned Night Herons and Rock Shags also. The odd Elephant Seal and South American Fur Seals were dotted along the edges of the islands. Then, I picked up a flock of a dozen Brown-hooded Gulls! I was thrilled. Too far for decent photographs so I spent my time just observing them. A well-earned tick. Then the call went up for the landing instructions on Carcass Island. Frantic dashing to the cabin to don the waterproofs. Then headed for the Zodiac's and a landing on Carcass Island beckoned. This island is the home of the Cobb's Wren, one of the world's rarest birds. It is the only place in the world where this species is found. Also present should be Falkland Steamer Duck, Magellanic Snipe, Striated Caracara, Tussac Bird, Magellanic Penguin, Long-tailed Meadowlark and Ruddy-headed Goose. Ticks ahoy!
What a Zodiac landing is all about.
When we landed on the beach, the expedition team were there. Jim immediately pointed out Tussac Bird (aka Blackish Cinclodes) darting around our feet, Speckled Teal, Falkland Steamer Duck, Magellanic Oystercatcher, Turkey Vulture being mobbed by Magellanic Oystercatchers, a Variable Hawk flying over the ditches, Gentoo penguins coming out of the sea and onto the beach...I was just spinning around 360 trying to take it in. I hadn't even taken my lifejacket off, let alone get my camera out of the bag!! I, literally, had to sit down to take it in. We were here. This was bonkers. Throw into the mix the National Geographic photographer Paul Nicklen standing next to me, and a very surreal scenario began to unfold in front of my eyes. This definitely was not Kansas!!
Falkland Steamer Duck (male)
The Tussac Bird (C. a. antarcticus, a race of Blackish Cinclodes) is endemic to the Falklands/Las Malvinas and are very tame!
Magellanic Oystercatcher
When I started to breath again, got my camera out of the bag and finally plucked up the courage to speak to Paul Nicklen (one of the nicest and inspiring persons one could every meet), and his partner Cristina Mittermeier (another ridiculously talented photographer), we quickly found a Cobb's Wren feeding amongst the seaweed. Further down the beach, there was a Turkey Vulture feeding on a Gentoo Penguin carcass. Another Variable Hawk flew over and we could see geese up along the hills of the island. It was superb.
Cobb's Wren
Turkey Vulture feeding on a Gentoo Penguin carcass
The landing was to last a few hours, where we had walk along a marked trail towards the settlement at the other end of the beach. This was a 4 mile hike along the gentle slopes. This was my very first "group outing" with a camera. I found it a bit strange and frustrating but I had accepted that that was the way it was going to be. I was determined to make the best of the situation and enjoy myself without regret. Walking along with Paul and Cristina made the experience something I'll always treasure. Along the way over to the dwellings, we passed Upland Geese with their chicks, the beautiful Ruddy-headed Geese, vocal Magellanic Oystercatchers along the slopes and Magellanic Penguins nesting among the large tussac grass mounds. More Cobb's Wrens were seen close to the shoreline and Kelp Geese were feeding along the water's edge. We also had some Falkland Steamer Ducks with chicks along the shoreline. At nearly ever fence post with long grass growing around its base, we found a nesting Magellanic Snipe. Another new species for me. It's quite a striking bird, with pale cryptic plumage.
Upland Goose (female) and her goslings
Ruddy-headed Goose
Falkland Steamer duck and chicks
Magellanic Oystercatcher calling, or rather squeaking, amongst the tussac grass
Magellanic Snipe
When we reached the dwellings, we were greeted with tea, coffee, water and some of the finest cakes and biscuits I have ever tasted (with the exception of my mother's baking!!). We had one hour to chill out around the dwelling, eat cake and sit about. Around the settlement were Striated Caracaras that would eat out of one's hand, Black-throated Finches, Austral Thrushes, Blackish Cinclodes (Tussac Bird), Magellanic Oystercatcher, and the Long-tailed Meadowlark. The Meadowlark is a stunning bird and also goes by the moniker Military Starling. Quite a stunning bird.
Striated Caracara
Long-tailed Meadowlark (Military Starling; male)
I hung back from boarding the Zodiacs when the call went up, which were taking the passengers back to the Sea Spirit. I just didn't want to leave. This was heaven. I wanted to squeeze as much time as possible out of these landings. The beauty of the place? It was quiet. There was no noise from traffic. There was no noise from mobile phones beeping, dinging and chiming. There were so few people. It was all about the wildlife. It was the way it should be. But still, our influence as humans was evident with the presence of introduced plants such as gorse, Monterey Cypress trees and New Zealand Cabbage palms. The gorse is in danger of spreading across the island, destroying the native tussac grass, which the native birds depend on for breeding sites. There seems to be nowhere that we haven't influenced.
The last couple of species photographed before climbing into the Zodiacs and boarding the ship were the tame Blackish Cinclodes (Tussac Bird) and Black-throated (White-bridled) Finches. What a first landing!
Tussac Bird (Blackish Cinclodes)
Black-throated (White-bridled) Finch
The port of call in the afternoon, and after lunch on Deck 5 (more food...a common theme), was Saunder's Island. More on that later!
Days 3 and 4 - All At Sea
On the third day I woke early, had breakfast, paid my bill at the B&B and headed off in a cab. I was meeting up with Jim and Peter, together with the rest of the core staff of the Quark expedition team of the Sea Spirit, in a cafe on San Martin (the main drag of Ushuaia). Of course, I would have to get lost on the street, going east instead of west. My sense of direction is bad enough in the northern hemisphere without having it all turned upside down in the southern hemisphere! It was interesting to observe, through the sweat pouring down my face after lugging my gear right across town having lost my bearings, during those first 5 minutes that I met the core staff of the Sea Spirit in a cafe, was their desire to find fast and unhindered WIFI before having to get back to the ship and prepare for the next round of passengers. Being out of contact with loved ones and the rest of the world for 10 days with only satellite connection to the internet of all things does play on people. Everyone was furtively downloading, answering emails quickly, and catching up on news local to them. The internet of all things has become so integral to us now (watching The Walking Dead and having read The Bone Clocks makes this observation quite interesting; to me at least). Jim, Peter and I made our excuses and we headed off to dump my gear on the ship before getting lunch.
Peter and Jim download emails and other files for reading later on. Satellite Internet is uber expensive on board the ship.
I was granted permission to board the ship early, before any of the other passengers. Jim gave me my boarding pass, I went through "customs" on the pier, observing the "Brits Out" mural that flanked the gates to the pier, and we walked up the gangway of the Sea Spirit. This allowed me to drop off my bags and freed myself for the rest of the day to hang out with Jim and Peter, grab some lunch get ready for the excitement. It was great to see Jim and Peter, have a coffee and catch up on the happenings of their first trip of the season. Jim was regaling tales of Antarctic Petrels and Snow Petrels buzzing around the ship and Snow Petrels flying around Peter's head as he was driving his Zodiac through the packed ice. (Remember this sentence for later.) I couldn't wait.
We had to get back to the ship for a certain time and I met with some other crew. I was sharing a 3-berth cabin with two other guys I had never met before. Luckily for all of us, we got on well and they were to help make the trip very memorable. Damian Caniglia, a photographer from Australia, was just as mad as me in not bothering with sleep and getting up for dawn most mornings. We were delayed leaving the quay due to having to load more fuel than expected. This meant waiting for more fuel trucks to arrive. However, just before dusk, we were on our way. I was hoping to be able to see some of the sights of the Beagle Channel before we departed, but it was not to be. By the time dawn would break, we would be leaving the sight of Tierra del Fuego behind and making our way towards Las Malvinas/Falkland Islands.
Waiting to leave, looking towards the bow of the Sea Spirit from Deck 2.
Finally, the engines start. Kelp and Dolphins Gulls, as well as Southern Giant Petrels, come in for a gander at what is stirred up by the engine wash.
I woke to a pleasant first morning after a decent night's sleep and there were plenty of birds about. I was on deck before 6am, relishing the prospect of albatrosses, petrels, shearwaters and blubber. We were fortunate that the weather was at our back and was not too rough. A 2 metre swell and a favourable wind pushed us onwards and were fortunate to see Northern and Southern Royal Albatross, Black-browed Albatross, Grey-headed Albatross, Northern and Southern Giant Petrel, Thin-billed Prion, Southern Fulmar, Cape Petrel, Great, and Sooty Shearwaters, Wilson's and and White-chinned Petrels, Common Diving Petrel and Magellanic Penguins on our first day at sea. Chilean and Brown Skuas flew around the ship, as did a couple of Snowy Sheathbills while we were still in sight of land. All very surreal. We were fortunate to witness a small pod of six Peale's Dolphin and a small group of 4 Long-finned Pilot Whales.
Imperial Shags in flight.
Black-browed Albatross.
Southern Royal Albatross.
Southern Royal Albatross.
Southern Royal Albatross.
Wandering Albatross (note the black edging to the tale and slight "gilling" around the neck).
Southern Giant Petrel.
Giant Petrel feeding flock in the wake of the ship, with a couple of Cape Petrel and a Black-browed Albatross lurking.
Northern Giant Petrel (note the dark-tipped bill).
Southern Fulmar - one of the most beautiful seabirds seen during the entire trip.
Cape Petrel (Pintado).
Snowy Sheathbill in flight...it just looks wrong!
It was an incredible first day at sea, with thousands of Cape Petrel, Black-browed Albatross and Giant Petrels. Everywhere I looked, there were seabirds. It was a magical christening and introduction to the Southern Ocean. It was strange, yet comforting, to see three species here that I can see most autumns off the south and west coasts of Ireland - Sooty and Great Shearwaters, and Wilson's Storm Petrel. These species breed in these waters and spend the non-breeding part of the year flying around the Atlantic Ocean looking for food, even up around by the Irish coast. Incredible. The day was topped off with what would become a daily occurrence...a few well-earned Beagle ales. Bed by 10pm and the alarm set again for 5am. Who needs sleep!?!?! That can be taken when I get back to civilisation. Las Malvinas/Falkland Islands awaited us the following morning.
Please leave a comment on the blog if you've enjoyed it or if you can see ways I can improve on it. Thank you!
Day 2 - The Beagle Channel and Ushuaia Town
After another solid night's sleep, the hungry cries of the Rufous-collared Sparrow fledglings outside my window was better than any alarm clock. There was plenty of snow on the ground shortly after dawn, which confused my northern latitude senses as I watched the fledglings being fed by a weary-looking adult Rufous-collared Sparrow. Where I come from, there should not be any snow when adult sparrows are feeding their young. A non-native Eurasian House Sparrow flew past my sleepy gaze and confused me further. I roused my sleepy self and got ready to eat and head down to the town front to book a place on a trip out to the Beagle Channel. The targets were South American Fur Seal, South American Sea Lion and Magellanic Diving Petrel, and any seabird that decided to present itself!
Ushuaia from the sea.
I booked a place on the Navegando el Fin de Mundo's charter called Tango; a small boat which would allow us to get a closer to some of the smaller islands. While waiting to board the boat, I paid the customs tax in the harbour master's office and had a cup of coffee while watching Dolphin Gulls, Kelp Gulls, Southern Giant Petrels, Rock Shags and Imperial Shags in the harbour. A small group of 4 Black-faced Ibis flew along the Ushuaian skyline, quickly followed by what was probably a Peregrine Falcon. While watching a Turkey Vulture quarter over the town dump in the distance, I also spotted a single Andean Condor over the mountains in the distance. Incredible sight and not something I had expected. Tick and run!
The view across the channel to Ushuaia from one of the outer Bridge Islands.
The weather conditions were still a bit breezy, cold and overcast, but we headed off out after a brief safety talk, with only 7 passengers on board. A nice small crew. We cruised around the channel for about 4-5 hours in choppy conditions. With the boat being small, we were thrown around a bit in the deceptive swell. Although the conditions were comfortable in general, it was not easy for photography. There were plenty of Imperial Shags, Southern Giant Petrels and Chilean Skuas flying around the area. We also stumbled upon a King Crab fishing boat, which handed over two crabs to the skipper of our boat. The boat was also surrounded by a cloud of Southern Giant Petrels and a single Black-browed Albatross. The first one of the trip and a lifer for me.
South American Fur Seals
King Crab Boat surrounded by Southern Giant Petrels, Kelp Gulls and Chilean Skuas. A single Black-browed Albatross also joined the melee.
King Crab
Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse and breeding Imperial Shags
South American Sea Lions, Kelp Gulls and Dolphin Gulls
South American Sea Lion surveying all his surrounds
South American Fur Seal
South American Sea Lion, Dolphin Gulls and Snowy Sheathbill (one of only two species native to Antarctica).
Chilean Skua (very warm, cinnamon tones)
Southern Giant Petrel (pale tip to the bill)
Imperial Shags
Imperial Shag with nest material
Rock Shags
We then motored over to a series of small islands which separately held colonies of South American Sea Lions and South American Fur Seals. These were massive beasts and quite intimidating. The colonies were interspersed with Dolphin and Kelp Gulls, as well as Snowy Sheathbills. I was quite surprised to see the Sheathbills in amongst the seals, but it was great to see and really brought home the fact that we weren't in Kansas anymore. A French couple on the trip were thrilled to see the Sheathbill as they were not venturing south than Ushuaia. The sight of the Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse was something.
We also stopped off on one of the islands, so as to walk up to the top to get a view across the islands and Tierra del Fuego. The island was covered in low-lying shrubs, bushes, and grass. There were Austral Thrush, Austral Negrito, Southern Caracara, Patagonian Sierra Finch, Dark-sided Cinclodes, and Rufous-collared Sparrows there. Along the edges were Kelp Goose and more Chilean Skuas. A brief view of a single Southern Fulmar set the hearts racing but I didn't manage to take any photographs of that bird. More of those were seen and many photographs taken later on in the trip. Stay tuned for those! Unfortunately, we never connected with Magellanic Diving Petrels so my only chance of seeing that species was now dashed.
On the left is Argentina. On the right is Chile.
Chilean Skua
Southern Giant Petrel
Imperial Shag
Southern Caracara
Patagonian Sierra Finch
Once we got back to shore, I walked along the shorefront towards the airport to check for waders. The only birds of note were Crested Duck, Chiloe Wigeon, fly-over Black-faced Ibis, Chimango Caracara, Kelp Goose, Dolphin and Kelp Gulls and Southern Lapwing. There were very few waders about; the only species I saw on the trip being the Lapwing. Stunning birds nevertheless. There were South American Terns in display flights and a Yellow-billed Pintail in a small pond which was very skittish. Another Austral Negrito was also about the long grasses but I could never get close enough for a decent image. A pair of Kelp Geese flew across the bay and landed right in front of where I was, spooking the Dolphin Gulls feeding on a sewage outflow. These are a very striking species, closely related to the Shelduck. There are only about 30,000 birds in existence, so feel very privileged to have seen them.
Kelp Goose (male and female)
Crested Duck
Yellow-billed Pintail
Chiloe Wigeon
Southern Lapwing
Dolphin Gulls
Kelp Gull
South American Tern
The Southern Lapwing are striking birds and I stumbled upon a pair during my walk along the shore edge. A pair of Chiloe Wigeon in amongst the Crested Ducks were a pleasant and welcome surprise. The walk back along town produced a fly-over Turkey Vulture and Rock Shag close to the shoreline.
Rock Shag
Turkey Vulture
The evening involved getting some grub and a couple of beers in the Dublin pub. Cliched Irish Pub, I know, but the beer choice there was excellent. The local beer called Beagle (particularly their ale) is well worth sampling. I retired early as the following day was the day I was to join the Sea Spirit and the Quark Expedition. I couldn't wait. After two incredible days in and around Ushuaia, I could only begin to imagine what the trip ahead would bring...
Day 1 of the Antarctic Adventure 2014
At long last, after years of salivating over photographs taken and stories told by my uncle, Jim Wilson, I was on my way south of the equator for the first time. I was on my way to sail on the Southern Ocean for 20 days. I was on my way to see my first wild, penguins. I was on my way to South Georgia and Antarctica. This was a trip of a lifetime. What was going to make it even more special? Jim and his son, my cousin, Peter Wilson were going to be working on the ship I was to be on. The ship is called M.V. Sea Spirit and leased to Quark Expeditions, the company that Jim and Peter were working for for the Antarctic season. I could not wait to get going. After leaving Dublin on Friday afternoon in mid-November, hitting three airports, boarding three flights, I landed in Ushuaia on Saturday night. The most southerly city in the world; the end of the world.
I was staying in a B&B called La Maison de Ushuaia, nestled in the hills of Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina and only a 5 minute walk to the main drag. It was cold when I arrived, despite it being the beginnings of summer. I had a chat with Solange in the B&B and made plans for the following day. I headed into town 5 minutes walk away for something to eat and a beer. After an hour, with the Sandman entering the fold, I was back in the B&B and asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow. I was shattered from the three back-to-back flights, even though the excitement at the thought of what the following day could bring was palatable.
I woke early, the sound of unfamiliar birdsong unsettling my sleep. The sounds was to become a familiar sound over the few days I spent around Ushauaia - Rufous-collared Sparrows! The view that greeted me having breakfast (above) was stunning. Once I had had my fill, I walked down to the main town front to determine what to do. If it was too windy for the Beagle Channel, I would head to the national park on the outskirts of town. It was too windy for the Beagle Channel. So, it was a day for the Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego; a mere 10km west of Ushuaia. A subantarctic forest and reputedly the most southerly national park in the world. With some time to spare before the taxi bus left, I wandered along the seafront of Ushuaia and was greeted with my fist sightings of Northern Giant Petrel, South American Tern, Dolphin and Kelp Gulls. Steamer Ducks flying along the town-front confirmed they weren't Flightless. A nice one to get in the bag early.
The South American Terns have taken up residence during the breeding season on the wreck of the Saint Christopher (HMS Justice) aground in the harbout (see above). After the war, she was decommissioned from the Royal Navy and sold for salvage operations in the Beagle Channel. After suffering engine problems in 1954, she was beached in 1957 in Ushuaia's harbour where she now serves as a monument to the shipwrecks of the region.
The National Park was stunning. Nestled along the shore of the Beagle Channel towards and beyond the Chilean border. There is Antarctic and Lenga Beech everywhere. It was cold, bright, but very windy. My main targets here were Magellanic Woodpecker, Austral Parrot and Andean Condor. There was plenty of evidence of the Woodpecker but I didn't see any, nor was I to see the Parrot or Condor.
However, as I walked up to 15km along the trails and the forests, I did see some amazing birds. Everything was new. I was like a child in a sweet shop. I lugged about 15kg of camera gear with me so thankfully I was dressed in layers! The weather was getting windier as the day went on but not too cold. The sun was out for the morning and the cloud swept in for the afternoon.
The typical view along the shoreline trail I took through the National Park.
Great Grebe (Podiceps major)
Fuegian (Magellanic) Flightless Steamer Duck (Tachyeres pteneres)
Patagonian Crested Duck (Lophonetta specularioides specularioides)
Ashy-headed Goose (Chloephaga poliocephala) - female
Upland Goose (Chloephaga picta) - male
Chimango Caracara (Milvago chimango)
Southern-crested Caracara (Caracara plancus)
(Patagonian) Tufted Tit-Tyrant (Anairetes parulus patagonicus)
Fire-eyed Diucon (Xolmis pyrope)
Austral Thrush (Austral Thrush (Turdus falcklandii magellanicus)
Rufous-collared Sparrow (Zonotrichia capensis)
White-crested Elaenia (Elaenia albiceps)
Dark-bellied Cinclodes (Cinclodes patagonicus)
Southern House Wren (Troglodytes aedon group)
Lake Roca looking towards Chile
Other species of note during the trek through the national park included Black-faced Ibis, Yellow-billed Pintail, Speckled Teal, Chiloe Wigeon, Chilean Skua, Chilean Swallow, Patagonian Sierra Finch, Black-throated Finch, House Sparrow and Black-chinned Siskin. While I had really hoped to see Magellanic Woodpecker and Austral Parrot, it was not to be. There were a lot of people walking the trail, including what appeared to be a trail running race, and with the very high wind blowing through the channel, the birds were hard to find. It was a beautiful setting though, and a day well spent. I had toyed with the idea of hiring a bird guide for the day, but I was really there for the seabirds. The National Park and passerines were a bonus so I just treated it like that; a bonus day to chill, relax and follow my feet.
Upon returning to Ushuaia that evening, the Terms were getting busy on the boat (above) and I was starving. I returned to the B&B, dropped off my gear and headed downtown for some grub and a well-earned beer. Tomorrow looked like it was going to be calmer so the hope was to head out on the Beagle Channel. The targets: seabirds and mammals.